Back to top
We didn't make it very far. After less than two hours on the road, we saw a little cafe and our grumbling tummies reminded us that we hadn't eaten anything for breakfast. A blonde woman, attracted to the sound of the thumping bikes, came out to greet us. She explained that she was also a motorcyclist and the owner of the cafe. She took a couple quick photos of the bikes and welcomed us in. We had delicious espressos and a salami baguette sandwich as the kind lady drew us a map of the best way to head toward Cordoba. But, she assured us that this town was the most beautiful for miles and had better camping. Not needing much convincing, we decided to camp here for the night. Then one night turned into two.
It was another very civilized camp site, complete with hot showers and a little shop selling necessities like eggs, toilet paper and beer. And like every other camp site in this country, it was full of hopeful dogs. This time, the pack included three shepherd mutt puppies. Puppies! One who took a shine to us on the first day, we began calling "Rabbit." She was very forward and flopped down on us for a belly rub as the sun faded behind the hills.
The second night, just after finishing a delicious campfire pasta flavored with some local chorizo and fresh veggies, a couple Norwegians came sauntering into our camp. The male half of the couple, Kaare, was an avid motorcyclist and had been drawn by the bikes for a chat. Interesting and friendly is an intoxicating combination which kept us up to the typical Argentinian hour of 4am. Finally crawling into the tent, Derek with his arms full of Rabbit and her sister, we barely noticed the chilly mountain air.
When we woke, the Norwegians reappeared with Argentina's national drink: Yerba Mate. This tea, drunk by many Argentinians all day long, is cloaked in ceremony. Having spent a while here for her studies, Ingebrod schooled us in the basics of the tradition. A bit like a strong, slightly bitter green tea, I can see how people get very into this!
We hope to meet our Norwegian friends in Buenos Aires later this week!